The Worker Rights Consortium (WRC) recently completed a comprehensive investigation into Özak Tekstil’s factory located in Şanlıurfa Province, Turkey, uncovering severe violations of workers’ rights that have raised significant ethical and legal concerns. Scott Nova, the executive director of WRC, underscored a critical point from their findings: the credibility of brand labor standards hinges entirely on their effective enforcement. This investigation starkly illustrated Özak Tekstil’s blatant disregard for Turkish labor laws and international labor standards, despite its status as a supplier to major global brands like Levi Strauss & Co.
The investigation detailed a disturbing pattern of misconduct at Özak Tekstil, including harsh reprisals against workers exercising their right to freedom of association. Workers reported facing intimidation tactics ranging from verbal threats to physical aggression, aimed at thwarting their efforts to organize independently. The factory management allegedly engaged in union-busting activities, mass terminations of nearly 500 employees, and egregious practices such as withholding wages and severance payments—a clear violation of basic labor rights protected by both Turkish legislation and international conventions.
Central to the investigation was the controversy surrounding Öz İplik-İş, the union supported by the factory management, which workers accused of being a “yellow union”—a term denoting a union perceived to be under the undue influence of the employer rather than representing workers’ genuine interests. The majority of workers sought to join Birtek-Sen, an alternative union they believed would better advocate for their rights. However, Özak Tekstil responded with aggressive measures, including dismissals and retaliatory actions against those supporting Birtek-Sen, exacerbating tensions and escalating the conflict.
Levi’s initial response to the violations was firm, condemning Özak Tekstil’s actions as a serious breach of its supplier code of conduct. In correspondence with the Clean Clothes Campaign and WRC, Levi’s expressed its zero-tolerance stance toward any attempts to undermine workers’ rights and indicated its intent to sever ties with Özak Tekstil if the dismissed workers were not reinstated without repercussion. However, Levi’s later revised its position, opting to continue its business relationship with Özak Tekstil under a conditional agreement. This decision drew criticism from labor advocates, including Nova, who questioned Levi’s commitment to upholding its ethical standards in the face of persistent labor abuses.
Meanwhile, Öz İplik-İş defended its position, asserting that it has successfully negotiated collective bargaining agreements with Özak Tekstil on behalf of its members—a claim disputed by broader labor rights organizations like IndustriALL Global Union. The global union federation argued for the importance of genuine union representation and collective bargaining rights in Turkey’s industrial landscape, highlighting ongoing challenges to labor rights amidst governmental crackdowns on civil liberties.
The aftermath of the WRC report has seen heightened scrutiny and legal actions, including a complaint filed in Germany under the supply chain human rights obligations against Levi’s, Hugo Boss, and Inditex. This legal action reflects growing international pressure on brands to enforce robust due diligence practices and ensure accountability throughout their supply chains.
In conclusion, the Özak Tekstil case serves as a stark reminder of the ethical dilemmas faced by multinational corporations operating in global supply chains. It underscores the imperative for brands to not only establish stringent labor standards but also rigorously enforce them to prevent abuses, protect workers’ rights, and uphold ethical business practices worldwide. The ongoing dialogue and legal actions stemming from this case are pivotal in fostering greater accountability and transparency in corporate supply chain management.